Weekly Stories

Give Way: a dreadful last day in Roma and a surprisingly lovely time in Gatwick and now home

It is 5am and I am up to walk my old dog. Not bad. My clock is only off by two hours. I slip on my sandals and they still have sand in them from Gavitella beach. The moon is high in the sky as old Tartuffe and I stroll around sleepy Little Italy. I am delighted to see that tulips are just coming out now, the cherry blossoms are in full matrimony and the rhodos haven’t popped. My children are sleeping. I am tempted to peek at them both, having missed them muchly. But being teens, this isn’t the…

Praiano: the path of the Gods

Rough hewn Crosses along the path invited me to think this must be a “stations of the cross” sort of camino. I reverently approached the marble carving near the stairs. Instead of seeing the Christ enduring Roman torture, I saw…two pigs copulating…with…a man trapped underneath? This is either an extreme take on the prodigal son or this is also the path of other deities. The hike from Bomerano to Positano up and across the mountainous cliffs of the Amalfi coast is called The Path of the Gods: Sentiero deli dei. It takes the average person about three and a half…

Praiano – a walk to Torre a Mare and other heavenly things

I’ve been listening to some soft spoken Italiana singing “Hotel California” as I watch the sun set settle itself all pink and sexy over Positano. I am on my last sip of limoncello after a lobster linguini and a terrific little hike. I am suddenly pulled into the past and into the deepness of a feeling when the Italiana is replaced with Kate Bush. What?! Kate Bush?! Did I listen to anyone else in the nineties? Amazing the feelings that can come with music. It doesn’t matter that I’m 47. It doesn’t matter that I’m in Italy. Kate sings and…

when I know I’m ready to start a new play

Fireworks went off over the town of Positano along where the luxury hotels are. Must be some celebrity’s birthday. I headed out to the balcony to see and stretch my legs. The quiet doves are tucked into their nesting tree beside me and they could care less who just turned 41. They had the same blasé response to the busses that tried to pass each other on the narrow cliffside street outside my balcony this afternoon and one of their mirrors got ripped off. The doves completely ignored the mother shouting at her children at dinner, “time to come in and…

Praiano: basking in the glory

I cannot look at the Christ and his sacred heart. All I can see is Tina Turner shot in the chest. So, I focus on the fresh birds of paradise, calla lilies, tulips and day lilies beautifully arranged around his feet. This metaphor is more symbiotic with my sense of Jesus. A little church lady was scuttling around caring for the flowers when I peeked into the San Gennaro chiesa. I was drawn in by the magnificence and could not help but utter a deep loud WOW. The uniqueness of this church is the inclusion of ceramic art, famous…

A family travels Italy 18-19: travel days and the gift of Amalfi

From what I have gleaned in the past three weeks I can confidently say I see no evidence that Italians believe in fluffy towels, breakfast, or the right of way for pedestrians. Nobody seems to be afraid of heights, concerned about cholesterol or trying to actively avoid motor vehicle accidents. I have yet to meet someone who is poorly dressed. Even the beggar ladies have an eye for colour. I have not missed Costco, Starbucks, bacon, peanut butter, soy product, bad ice-cream, or the current US president’s pinched and petulant face plastered everywhere. I am really enjoying the local markets,…

A family travels Italy day 16-17: a perfect day trip to the Cinque Terre and a tour of the Uffizi and Accademia

As my eyes fluttered open from a post gelato afternoon nap, I heard the ubiquitous church bells of Italy joined gently by…yes…a choir of monks. Really? Monks are singing me awake? Really. Ridiculously perfect. I was dozing on the flat sunny rocks of Vernazza’s beach. It was about twenty degrees with a slight breeze. A group of boys were kicking around a soccer ball in the tiny town square above me. They were surrounded by restaurant patios. This is the only flat surface in this jewel of a seaside town clinging to the side of a cliff. Waiters come out…

a family travels Italy day 15: the San Lorenzo market, the Galileo science museum and modern Italian cuisine in Firenze

“I want the pigeon” says my step son. “I want to try something unique.” This is the boy who has ordered Margarita pizza from southern Italy to northern Italy, give or take a plate of gnocchi which is basically the same thing in ball form. Nora chimes in, “Me too!” Fantastico! We are still up for adventures! This is a good sign. We are at la Beppa di Fioraia, a shabby chic garden cottage turned into a restaurant with a beautiful hip sparse patio and a clean lined quirky interior. The waiters are all handsome young men with fabulous swirly…

A family travels Italy day 13-14: grumps

My husband gave me a time out today in front of the Pitti palace. I was on my fourth shot of espresso. I was vibrating with annoyance and he was right to banish me. I stomped over to a pigeon poopy end of the ticket booth area and concentrated on calming the heck down. He stayed in line for the Boboli gardens with the kids behind a flock of young nuns. I looked ridiculous in my sassy striped INC wrap dress with bare legs and my bright purple and green Pumas. My sandals were starting to hurt already and I…

A family travels Italy day 12: where to stay and what to eat in Firenze

As we wheel our wheelies over cobblestone streets we come to a big wooden door a few blocks behind the Uffizi, “16”. A little lady hears us coming and waves us in. “Lucia?” “Si.” “Giovanni’s Mama.” “Allora.” Giovanni has the airbnb and his Mom is taking care of the check in. She leads us up three flights of ancient stairs and opens up the complicated suite door to AHHHHHH. Bright airy eighteen foot ceilings, a full kitchen and living room with two pull out beds, an elegant master bedroom with an antique bureau and desk, and a huge regal bathroom….

Lucia Frangione